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The Roof Replacement Process Step-by-Step with a Trusted Contractor

A roof project sits at the intersection of craft, logistics, and weather. It is not just a new layer of shingles or panels, it is a sequence of decisions and hands-on work that protects everything beneath it. Homeowners often focus on the finish line, the final look from the curb, but the quality is locked in long before a nail is driven. A trusted roofing contractor brings method to the chaos, shepherding the process from the first attic peek to the final magnet sweep of the lawn. Here is how a well-run roof replacement actually unfolds when you hire pros who take pride in their work.

The first conversation and what it should cover

Good roofing contractors start with questions, not pitches. They ask about the home’s age, prior leaks, ventilation issues, ice dams, and whether the HVAC changed in recent years. The goal is not to sell the most expensive roof, it is to find the right solution for the house and the climate. In my own practice, when I hear about a persistent bathroom leak and see blackened nail tips in the attic, I suspect under-ventilation before I blame the shingles. If you get a contractor who jumps straight to color choices without poking at the root causes, keep meeting others.

You can expect a thorough contractor to walk the perimeter, climb the roof if safe, and go into the attic. They will check for soft decking, sunburned shingles, popped fasteners, flashing gaps around chimneys and walls, and clogged gutters. Inside the attic, a flashlight tells the truth: stained sheathing, compressed insulation, furnace exhaust tied into a bath fan, or baffles missing at the eaves. These details steer the scope of work, and they matter as much as the shingle brand.

Clear communication continues with budget talk. Roofing installation costs depend on roof size, pitch, material, access, and any rotten decking. Labor rates fluctuate by region. On typical asphalt roofs, I see ranges between 4.50 and 8.50 per square foot of roof area, installed, including disposal. Steeper roofs and complex valleys lean higher. Metal roofing climbs above that, often 9.00 to 14.00 per square foot, but not always, because profiles and regional supply shift pricing.

Scope, options, and how to compare bids the right way

A great bid reads like a recipe you could hand to any crew and get the same meal. It lists tear-off layers, underlayments by brand and weight, ice and water shield coverage in feet, ventilation hardware, drip edge color, flashing plan, shingle or panel type, fastener specs, dumpster logistics, and cleanup. Cheap quotes hide in vague language. If one estimate says “install felt,” and another says “install synthetic underlayment rated ASTM D226 type II equivalent,” you are not comparing apples.

Material choice is not a popularity contest. Asphalt architectural shingles dominate for cost and aesthetics, but they vary widely. Look for third-party impact ratings, algae resistance, and wind warranties tied to specific installation steps. Standing seam metal lasts longer and sheds snow in northern zones, but it telegraphs oil canning if panels are not sized and fastened with care. Clay and concrete tile carry terrific durability in warm, dry climates, yet they demand strong framing. Wood shakes give a gorgeous texture at the cost of higher maintenance and, in some regions, fire code restrictions. I have replaced perfectly good shakes because a neighborhood adopted stricter rules, and no homeowner wants a roof that spooks insurers.

When you gather multiple bids, make a short list by alignment, not by lowest price. The best roofing repair companies explain trade-offs and advise where to invest. If a contractor urges you to allocate money to ice barrier and ridge ventilation before upgrading to the prettiest shingle, that is a strong signal they care about performance. Ask them to show mockups, but also to sketch a ridge-to-soffit airflow path and a flashing detail at the sidewall. Pictures of past work help, yet jobsite references carry more weight. If a neighbor praises the crew’s cleanup and punctuality and says their yard looked untouched the next day, you have learned something a photo gallery cannot tell you.

Permits, HOA approvals, and insurance coordination

In many jurisdictions, a roof replacement requires a building permit. Your roofing contractor should pull it and schedule inspections. I view it as a litmus test of professionalism. If a company wants you to pull the permit to save them time, rethink. The permit fee is tiny compared to the project’s value, and passing inspection protects you later during a sale.

Homeowners’ associations may require pre-approval on color and material. Share the product cut sheets and color samples early, especially for metal or tile profiles. Lead times for special-order colors can run two to six weeks. Plan accordingly.

If your roof replacement follows storm damage, the claims process adds a layer of choreography. Roofing companies that handle insurance can speak the carrier’s language: Xactimate line items, code upgrades, overhead and profit. A good contractor still keeps you in the loop. You sign the contract with them, not with the insurer, and you should understand what scope the carrier approved. Clarify whether the bid includes decking repairs beyond a set allowance. Water can rot sheathing in patches that only reveal themselves during tear-off. A range or per-sheet rate keeps surprises fair.

Pre-job planning and staging the site

The week before installation, the project manager confirms material delivery, dumpster placement, and access for crews. A smooth job starts on the ground. I have watched efficient teams lay out tarps, plywood shields for shrubs, and magnetic mats by the entrance before a single bundle lands on the roof. Protecting AC condensers and pool covers matters. If you have a koi pond under the eave, mention it. Good crews will build a temporary tunnel of plywood to keep nails and debris out of the water.

Neighbors appreciate a courtesy note about noise and daytime parking. Some roofing companies provide it by default. If you have pets or children sensitive to noise, plan for an off-site day during tear-off. It can sound like a drum line on the ceiling.

Material staging should be mindful of structure. Delivery drivers should not stack two pallets of shingles over a span with known deflection. Distribute loads along bearing walls. A conscientious foreman uses common sense and, when in doubt, carries more bundles by hand rather than risking a heavy stack in one spot.

Tear-off day, what the crew watches, and how it looks from the yard

Tear-off is rapid, messy, and revealing. Crews use shingle shovels to lift layers into chutes or directly into the dumpster. I prefer crews that run tarps down from the eaves to catch stray nails and scrap. One or two team members should focus on cleanup continuously, not Roofing companies just at the end. That keeps tripping hazards in check and maintains a professional site.

Once the old roofing is gone, the sheathing tells its story. Soft or darkened OSB, delaminated plywood, and gaps wider than a quarter inch need attention. Nails that missed rafters leave swiss-cheese boards. You will often see localized rot around chimneys, skylights, and vents. Replace as needed. I recommend a signed change order for decking repair that shows quantity and cost. Taking a dozen photos for the homeowner builds trust.

At the eaves, confirm the drip edge plan. In many codes, you install metal drip edge along eaves and rakes, with the ice and water shield lapped to direct water into the gutters. I like to see starter strips aligned perfectly, especially at rakes, so the first course of shingles bonds and resists wind uplift.

Underlayment, ice protection, and the details that seldom make Instagram

Underlayment is the unsung hero. Synthetic underlayments resist tearing and shed water better than old felt, especially under foot traffic. In cold regions, a peel-and-stick ice barrier at the eaves and valleys is non-negotiable. I advise coverage from the eave edge up at least 24 inches beyond the warm wall line, which often equals 3 to 6 feet, depending on overhangs and climate. Around chimneys and skylights, I use peel-and-stick patches before metal flashings go in. It buys redundancy at known leak points.

Valleys deserve a plan. Open metal valleys handle heavy water flow and debris better than woven shingles. If you choose closed-cut valleys for look, make sure the cut edge is clean, with no keyhole slices that invite wind-driven rain. I have returned to fix more woven valleys than open ones, especially under heavy snow and ice.

Ridge and hip underlayments need proper laps. On ridges, cut back the roof sheathing to form a continuous vent channel if the system calls for a ridge vent. Too many older homes have ridges with vent covers nailed on top of solid decking. That is a decorative hat, not a vent.

Ventilation, intake, and the science behind a quiet attic

A balanced system moves air in at the eaves and out at the ridge. The numbers matter. Code and manufacturer recommendations often call for a net free vent area split roughly 50 percent intake and 50 percent exhaust, adjusted for roof pitch using published tables. Blocked soffits are common. When I see original 1970s soffits made of plywood with a few lazy vents drilled, I know the attic runs hot. Baffles at each rafter bay keep insulation from choking the intake and create an air channel from the soffit to the attic.

Avoid mixing exhaust types. A ridge vent paired with box vents or a powered fan can short circuit airflow, pulling air in through one exhaust and out another, bypassing the soffits. A disciplined roofing contractor will calculate the venting, clear the paths, and choose one exhaust strategy. That quiets the attic, reduces summer heat, and helps in winter by minimizing condensation.

Flashings and penetrations, where experience earns its keep

Flashings are the line between a roof that lasts and one that haunts you. Reusing old flashings to save a few dollars risks brittle metal and bad fits. New step flashing at sidewalls should be woven course by course with the shingles, not face-caulked as an afterthought. Counterflashing at a brick chimney should tuck into a mortar joint, not just glued to the face. I budget time to cut and grind that joint carefully and then seal it with a high-quality sealant after installing the metal.

Plumbing vent boots fail more often than shingles. UV breaks down cheap rubber in eight to twelve years. A better option is a boot with a metal base and a higher-grade elastomer or a metal collar that slides over the pipe. If you want an extra belt-and-suspenders approach, add a small metal rain collar above the boot.

Skylights draw eyes and leaks in equal measure. A skylight nearing twenty years old is a candidate for replacement during roofing, even if it seems fine. Manufacturers sell flashing kits matched to the roof pitch and material. The incremental cost to replace now is far less than tearing into a new roof in three years to chase a drip. When clients hesitate, I show them the labor overlap and let them decide with all costs in view.

Shingles or panels down, pattern straightness, and fastening discipline

On asphalt, starters run first at eaves and rakes. Stagger patterns vary by manufacturer to avoid repeating butt joints that create weak lines. Lines matter. I still snap chalk lines on every roof, even the simple ones. A hot day can soften asphalt enough that shingle edges wander, and wandering becomes a sawtooth shadow from the street. A clean layout looks professional and sheds water as designed.

Fasteners should seat snugly without cutting into the shingle mat. High nailing, even by half an inch, slices wind resistance in half because the nails miss the laminated thick zone. I like crews that call out each other’s nailing. Four nails per shingle is standard, six in high wind zones, with cap nails on underlayment where specified.

On standing seam metal, clip spacing and expansion details determine whether the panels sing in the sun or sit quiet. Long panels move. If you pin both ends, thermal growth fights the fasteners until paint scrapes and oil canning grows. Good metal installers mind the hem details at eaves and hips. They scribe panels to valleys with a painter’s eye and a sheet-metal tech’s patience.

Hips, ridges, and finishing touches

Hip and ridge caps are not just decoration. They complete the wind seal. For ridge vents, use a matched system. Nail length must penetrate the decking, even through thicker caps. On chimneys and walls, kickout flashings at the base of step flashing deflect water into gutters and away from siding. It is a small bent wedge of metal that saves a lot of rot.

Drip edge color can frame the roof nicely if it matches gutters or fascia. I ask homeowners about color harmony long before install day so we are not scrambling. On metal roofs, trim profiles define the finished look. Crisp gable trims and square eaves read as quality from across the street.

Daily cleanup and final walkthrough

A clean job sells the next one. Crews should run magnetic sweepers over lawns, beds, and driveways at the end of each day, not just at the end of the job. I have pulled a three-inch screw out of a driveway tire and learned that lesson the expensive way. A final sweep with multiple magnets and a hand check around play areas is part of my routine. Gutters should be cleared of granules and debris, and downspouts checked for clogs caused during tear-off.

The walkthrough is your moment to slow down. Inspect skylight perimeters, look up valleys, check paint touch-ups around pipes and vents, and confirm the attic is clear of daylight where it should not be. If decking replacements occurred, ask to see the photos. Get a copy of material warranties and the contractor’s workmanship warranty in writing, with clear terms. A one-year labor warranty is the bare minimum, but many reputable roofing companies stand behind their crews for five to ten years on workmanship.

What changes if your project is a repair, not a full replacement

Roof repairs demand as much care per square foot as a full roof replacement. Locating the true leak path can take detective work. Water often travels along rafters and appears twenty feet from the entry point. I have followed coffee-colored trails from a sidewall past two trusses to a bathroom ceiling and only then to a skylight curb with a tiny crack in the sealant. Good roofing repair companies test with a hose in controlled sections, starting low and moving up the roof to replicate the leak. They take the time to open shingles carefully, replace damaged felt or underlayment, and rebuild flashing properly rather than smearing tar. Caulk is a short-term patch, not a fix.

If your roof is within a year or two of end-of-life, a repair can still buy time. I tell clients honestly when a repair is worth doing and when throwing money at patches makes no sense. Clear communication protects trust on both sides.

Timelines, noise, and what to expect day by day

Most single-family asphalt roof replacements take one to three days once work starts, depending on size and complexity. Tear-off and dry-in usually happen the first day. If storms threaten, crews should stop, tarp, and return rather than gamble. Metal roofing takes longer because of custom flashings and panel work, often three to five days. Tile can extend to a week or more, including underlayment layers that need proper curing time if self-adhered products are used.

Noise is part of the package. You will hear pry bars, nail guns, compressors, and footsteps. A trusted contractor manages the pace, avoids starting before agreed hours, and keeps radios down. Access to driveways may be blocked for material drops and the dumpster. Park on the street the night before if you plan to leave during the day.

Weather and seasonality, the friend and foe on every job

Roofing is weather work. In hot climates, shingles soften and scuff underfoot if crews move without care. In cold conditions, self-seal adhesive strips do not activate immediately, so supplemental hand sealing may be required per manufacturer guidelines, especially near rakes and eaves. I prefer not to install asphalt shingles below about 40 degrees Fahrenheit without adjustments. Windy days complicate underlayment handling and can scatter debris. Good foremen watch radar, adjust schedules, and do not push their luck.

If a surprise storm rolls in during tear-off, a prepared crew carries large tarps and knows how to anchor them without causing damage. I train my team to stage tarps and cords before the first shingle lifts. Waiting five minutes at noon can save a ceiling at three.

Warranties and what they really cover

Material warranties often tout 30, 40, or lifetime coverage, but the fine print narrows what is included. Algae streaking coverage may be limited to certain regions and years. Wind ratings assume correct installation, including the use of starter strips and a specific number of nails. Many manufacturers offer enhanced warranties if a certified roofing contractor installs a full system of branded components. Those can include non-prorated periods and transferable terms. Ask your contractor to map which products and steps are tied to that enhanced coverage, and confirm registration after the job.

Workmanship warranties cover the install itself. If a leak appears around a chimney two years later due to improper counterflashing, that is workmanship. If hail dents the shingles, material and workmanship warranties do not apply, and you are likely in insurance territory. Understanding the lines prevents disappointment.

Budget planning and where to spend the next dollar

Homeowners often ask me where a little extra money does the most good. I give the same hierarchy, adjusted for climate. First, address ventilation and intake, then ice and water shield coverage in risk areas, then flashings and penetrations, then upgrade from a basic three-tab to an architectural shingle or from a thin to a thicker gauge on metal. A splash on color is fine, yet performance buys peace.

If your roof framing lacks straight lines, budget for minor carpentry. Valley supports, sistering at soft rafters, and replacing brittle fascia improve the outcome. A roof is only as good as what holds it.

The contractor’s craft, and how to recognize it

The best roofing contractors carry a few habits you can spot quickly. They measure twice and cut once, literally and figuratively. They label bundles by slope to balance loads. They pre-bend step flashing to a consistent profile so courses sit flat. They own the cleanup, keep pathways open, and greet neighbors. They also own mistakes. I have had a nail pop under a ridge cap six months after a job because wood moved. We returned, lifted the cap, reset the nail, sealed the hole, and left a note on the kitchen counter explaining what we did. That kind of follow-through cements trust.

If you are unsure about a company, look at their site protections on day one, their flashing work on day two, and their cleanup on the final day. Those three snapshots tell you almost everything about their standards.

A simple homeowner checklist before signing

    Confirm the written scope: tear-off layers, underlayments, ice barrier coverage, ventilation plan, flashing details, and disposal. Verify permits, HOA approvals, and target start date with a weather window. Align on materials by brand, profile, color, and lead times. Agree on change-order pricing for decking replacement and any extras. Get both material and workmanship warranties in writing, including registration steps.

Aftercare, maintenance, and how to keep the new roof new

A new roof does not ask for much, but a few habits extend its life. Clean gutters in spring and fall so water does not back up under eaves. Trim branches at least six to ten feet from the roof line to prevent abrasion and leaf piles. After big wind events, walk the perimeter and look for lifted tabs or displaced ridge caps. If you see granules collecting heavily in downspout splash blocks early in the roof’s life, ask your contractor to take a look. Some granule loss is normal in the first months as excess sheds, but heavy piles can signal scuffing or a manufacturing issue.

Avoid pressure washing. It tears at the shingle mat and forces water under laps. For algae streaks in humid climates, choose shingles with copper-infused granules or have a pro apply a gentle wash designed for roofs. On metal, a mild soap and water rinse works, and keep dissimilar metals from contacting the panels to avoid galvanic issues.

If you plan solar, tell your roofing contractor before replacement. They can lay out mount-friendly rafter maps, add blocking where needed, and use a shingle that pairs well with solar mounts. Coordinating with the solar installer prevents roof penetrations that fight warranty terms.

When a repair later makes sense, and when it is time to call for replacement again

Even a careful roof ages. At 15 to 20 years for asphalt, you may see curling edges, cracked tabs, and lost granules that expose black asphalt. Repairs on a roof at that stage buy time but rarely restore full integrity. I advise using repairs strategically, for example to hold until the slow season when pricing may be more favorable or until a planned refinance closes. If your roof is still relatively young and suffers a puncture from a branch or a flashing failure, a focused repair by a seasoned roofer is absolutely sensible. Just insist on proper underlayment and flashing work rather than cosmetic fixes.

When it is time to replace again, you will be a sharper consumer. You will know what a complete scope looks like, how a crew should treat your property, and which questions cut to the bone. That confidence is worth as much as any shingle upgrade.

The value of a contractor you can call by name

A roof is a relationship as much as it is a product. You are trusting people with the structure that shelters your life. The right roofing contractor guides choices, owns details, and delivers a clean, tight, quiet roof that resists wind and sheds water year after year. Not every surprise can be predicted, but a good partner is steady when they arise. When a homeowner texts two summers later asking about a small stain near a vent, I do not send a link or an excuse, I send a tech. That is the difference between a transaction and a craft.

Whether you need roof repair after a fast-moving storm or a full roof replacement to reset the clock, take the process step by step with a pro who explains, documents, and executes. You will hear hammers for a day or two. After that, you should hear nothing from your roof for a long time, except the quiet satisfaction that comes from knowing it was done right.

Trill Roofing

Business Name: Trill Roofing
Address: 2705 Saint Ambrose Dr Suite 1, Godfrey, IL 62035, United States
Phone: (618) 610-2078
Website: https://trillroofing.com/
Email: admin@trillroofing.com

Hours:
Monday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Tuesday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Wednesday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Thursday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Friday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Saturday: Closed
Sunday: Closed

Plus Code: WRF3+3M Godfrey, Illinois
Google Maps URL: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5EPdYFMJkrCSK5Ts5

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https://trillroofing.com/

The team at Trill Roofing provides quality-driven residential and commercial roofing services throughout Godfrey, IL and surrounding communities.

Homeowners and property managers choose this local roofing company for affordable roof replacements, roof repairs, storm damage restoration, and insurance claim assistance.

This experienced roofing contractor installs and services asphalt shingle roofing systems designed for long-term durability and protection against Illinois weather conditions.

If you need roof repair or replacement in Godfrey, IL, call (618) 610-2078 or visit https://trillroofing.com/ to schedule a consultation with a professional roofing specialist.

View the business location and directions on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5EPdYFMJkrCSK5Ts5 and contact Trill Roofing for affordable roofing solutions.

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Popular Questions About Trill Roofing

What services does Trill Roofing offer?

Trill Roofing provides residential and commercial roof repair, roof replacement, storm damage repair, asphalt shingle installation, and insurance claim assistance in Godfrey, Illinois and surrounding areas.

Where is Trill Roofing located?

Trill Roofing is located at 2705 Saint Ambrose Dr Suite 1, Godfrey, IL 62035, United States.

What are Trill Roofing’s business hours?

Trill Roofing is open Monday through Friday from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM and is closed on weekends.

How do I contact Trill Roofing?

You can call (618) 610-2078 or visit https://trillroofing.com/ to request a roofing estimate or schedule service.

Does Trill Roofing help with storm damage claims?

Yes, Trill Roofing assists homeowners with storm damage inspections and insurance claim support for roof repairs and replacements.

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Landmarks Near Godfrey, IL

Lewis and Clark Community College
A well-known educational institution serving students throughout the Godfrey and Alton region.

Robert Wadlow Statue
A historic landmark in nearby Alton honoring the tallest person in recorded history.

Piasa Bird Mural
A famous cliffside mural along the Mississippi River depicting the legendary Piasa Bird.

Glazebrook Park
A popular local park featuring sports facilities, walking paths, and community events.

Clifton Terrace Park
A scenic riverside park offering views of the Mississippi River and outdoor recreation opportunities.

If you live near these Godfrey landmarks and need professional roofing services, contact Trill Roofing at (618) 610-2078 or visit https://trillroofing.com/.

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